Chenango group (Dave & Yavone) won 1st place last year, Under the Bridge (John, Lynda) won 2nd place. The Blackshear group won 3rd place chili as well as 3rd place gumbo.
The Mardi Gras Moms won 1st place gumbo and the Dumbo Gumbos won 2nd place gumbo as well as Showmanship for two tickets to see ZZ TOP at the Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo (HLSR).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOR5btU8uWU&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGmyyBhptZI&feature=related

There are two types of welding that we will talk about, arc welding and oxy-acetylene. The latter will also include some pertinent information on cutting torches and fabrication of parts and tools.

But we will first cover some basics dealing with arc welding. It is a positively charged electrode and a negatively charged steel plate commonly called a ground complete a circuit at the end of a welding rod. When the rod is held a given distance from the item to be welded, the current jumps the gap creating an enormous amount of heat. The heat melts the rod end and a puddle of liquid metal will result which can be controlled to make a weld.

There are many types of arc welding. A few are carbon-arc, metal-electrode, gas metal-arc, atomic-hydrogen, MIG, TIG, and many others. For our purposes we will focus on two basic types of arc welding; AC and DC. It is difficult to explain the difference in simple, down to earth terms so let’s just settle for some of the main differences and advantages of each.

AC (alternating current) is probably the most common and most economical of welders. The distinct advantage that AC arc welding has is that there is virtually no magnetic blow, which causes excessive splatter and uncontrollable arcs. The basic features are a good forceful arc, an easy arc to maintain once it is begun. It is great for heavy steel plating because of deep penetration. The negative factors are that the initial arc can be difficult to start and that burn- throughs on thinner plates of metal can be a frustrating problem. All in all though, a simple AC welder is a good all around tool for general repairs.

DC, or direct current, provides for a more variety in welding. Direct current, by nature, can be manipulated in ways completely different than the alternating cycles of AC. One example of this is that by changing the polarity of current flow different welding characteristics can be realized. Straight polarity, when the current flows from the rod to the base metal, provides a fairly standard arc for a variety of metals. Reversed polarity, when the current flows from the base metal to the rod, provides for 2/3 of the total heat to be centralized in the welding rod tip. This superheats the electrode metal and shielding gas from the flux causing the molten metal to travel at a high velocity resulting in very deep penetration to the base metal. These variations in the types of DC units can accommodate welding on thick or thin metals. This can give quite a bit of flexibility when trying to avoid burn-throughs with thinner base metals or working on deeper weld penetration on thicker plates.

There are many articles on the different types of welding rods/electrodes and their welding characteristics that you can fine on the internet.

As with any trade there are certain hazards which must be addressed when arc welding.

•  Avoiding radiation from the arc, ultraviolet and infrared rays
•  Flying sparks, globules of molten metal
•  Electrical shock
•  Fumes
•  Burns

Protective clothing and specialized eye protection must be used in order to reduce these risks. An arc-welding helmet with protective lens reduces the amount of harmful eye radiation and protects the head from splatter and heat. The hair, hands, arms and other skin surfaces must be covered, preferably with heavy leather to shield out other harmful radiation produced by the intense arc. Don’t wear regular coverings like heavy cotton or wool as arc welding is accompanied by flying sparks and molten metal pieces that will ignite such clothing. Also avoid pants with cuffs, tennis shoes, thin gloves, and shoes with thin soles.

Avoid electrical shock by working on a dry floor with thick rubber shoes and by wearing dry leather welding gloves. Also make sure to use insulated electrode holders and have the equipment properly grounded. Keep the area properly ventilated to avoid inhaling the burnt fumes. The fumes generated in the welding process may contain highly toxic metal oxides. Keep in mind that you are welding with molten metal. The arc is hot, the metal is hot, and everything in contact with the metal is hot. Watch for falling metal globules; they burn quickly through tennis shoes and unprotected pants. When done welding use tongs to pick up the metal; it does not cool quickly and even when quenched in water beware of the superheated steam it produces when dipped and the heat it retains when removed.

Above all be aware of others around you. When an arc is struck to start welding the sudden flash can cause severe eye damage to onlookers.

More on oxy-acetylene welding in a later revision.

THE DRIVE SHAFTS AND U-JOINTS: the jeep drive shafts are all 7/8″ diameter steel bar stock with machined in keyway slots. Woodruff keys index the u-joints to the slots in the shafts. The shaft lengths vary by application. To circumvent typical obstacles (crossmembers, exhaust, clutch linkage, etc), a common application will have two shafts, three u-joints, and a center support bearing. For example the early CJ uses a 27 3/8″ front shaft and a 22″ rear shaft. The jeep truck, jeep wagon, or jeep sedan delivery uses a 31.5″ long front shaft and a 17.75″ rear.

Three different jeep universal joints are used in each setup. The front u-joint has one 7/8″ opening with a 3/16″ keyway and one 7/8″ opening with a 1/4″ keyway. The center u-joint has one 7/8″ opening with a 1/4″ keyway and one 7/8″ opening with a 1/4″ keyway. The rear u-joint has one 7/8″ opening with a 1/4″ keyway and one 1″ opening with a 1/4″ keyway. Note all shafts use 1/4″ keyways, but the winch uses a 3/16″ keyway and the PTO, which uses the 1/4″ keyway has a larger 1″ output shaft.

Sagging  in the center from length wise down the top(running from front to rear) and sagging across the center going (running from side to side) are major repairs. Stiffeners can be used on the inside of the top. They can be either bent 3/4″ aluminum box tubing or number one lumber,1 x 2’s or 2 x 2’s arched to fit the Original Bend(s). Surface preparation at this point is essential. Round off the outside corners of the stiffener because fiberglass does not like sharp corners.

The next step is attaching the stiffeners to the inside of the fiberglass top. Use a total five flat head wood screws for each wood stiffener and five metal flat head screws for the aluminum.  Drill the holes from the outside of the top into the stiffener. Mix up some bondo and apply between the stiffener and fiberglass. Set the first two screws lightly and temporarily using a flat washer under each head to hold in place then set all five without washers. Let set until hardened. Apply fiberglass and resin, smooth, sand and paint.

MORE TO COME!

A short piece of chain and lock will do.  You can buy locking nuts for all of your wheels and spare.

Here are the steps to take to perform a voltage drop test:

1. Connect your DVOM negative lead to the battery’s negative post.
2. Connect your DVOM positive lead to the battery’s positive post and measure its voltage. Record this reading.
3. Connect your DVOM positive lead to the positive side of the load being tested, as close to the load as possible.
4. Operate the circuit, and record your measurement.
5. Connect your DVOM positive lead to the negative side of the load being tested, as close to the load as possible.
6. Operate the circuit and record your measurement.

Let’s take a closer look at these steps. First, we want to test the integrity of the ENTIRE circuit so placing your test leads at the battery is a must. You can make an extension lead for your DVOM so you can always connect to the battery ground terminal with your negative meter lead. Second, it is important to know the source voltage available. If the battery is weak to start with your circuit is already working with a handicap.

In the third step, you are making sure all that source voltage is getting to the load component. Getting as close to the load as possible insures you are testing the entire path. On the positive side of the load you should read within 0.50 volts of your source voltage, i.e. if you started with 14.56 volts you should read no less than 14.06 volts. This applies to most basic circuits. If you are diagnosing a PCM/ECM related circuit you may want to see even less than that.

In step #5, you are looking for unwanted voltage drops in your load downstream because all the voltage should have been used by the load. If you get a voltage reading of 0.50v or more here there is something else taking voltage from the primary component. This unwanted source may be ultimately found downstream of the load maybe even at the battery connection itself.

Some voltage measurement on the ground side of a working load is normal. If an open to ground exists you will measure source voltage on both sides of the load. If the ground side measures 0.0 volts and the component is receiving correct source voltage then the load likely has an internal open AKA you have a failed component.

A common mistake is to use a chassis ground under the dash when testing inside the car.; but don’t forget that chassis ground point still has to make it back to the battery typically through a few more connections before the ground path is complete.

If done properly a voltage drop test will quickly isolate the problem and save you time and money in the process.

This original turkey brine recipe suits my own preferences and taste. You may change the ratios of ingredients to suit your taste

Pour the quart of hot water in a large and deep bucket, stir in the salt and molasses until fully dissolved, and then add the lemon, onion, garlic and other herbs and spices. Add the 4 quarts of cold water and let cool to room temperature or refrigerator temperature.

You might also use a large sturdy watertight plastic bag to brine the turkey.

Lower the turkey in the brine and make sure it is fully submerged and leave it for 12 hours. If you can get into the refrigerator the more the better. The next day just take it out and put it on the BBQ pit.