RAYSJEEPS .NET

Parmesan quail

webmaster — Fri, 13 Apr 2012 14:50:51 +0000

Use 6 quail for this recipe
1 1/2 cups Bechamel Sauce
1 pound of bacon done to a crisp
1 tsp. garlic powder
1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
2 tbsp. green onion, finely chopped
1 half cup Sherry
salt and pepper

Split and flatten quail. Then cook quail in chicken stock, onions, salt, pepper and garlic powder.

Make Bechamel (white sauce ) adding crisp bacon and parmesan cheese.

Heavily butter a baking pan. Then add cooked quail and cover with bbechamel sauce. Dot with black olives. Cover with foil

Heat oven to 250 degrees F. Simmer at 250 degrees for 15-20 minutes to meld flavors. Serve in baking pan. Save stock for making gravey for mashed potatoes

Quail eggs with mixed veggies

webmaster — Fri, 13 Apr 2012 14:48:00 +0000

Here’s an easy and quick dish I whipped up.
You will need some carrots, shiitake mushrooms, cauliflower and boiled quail eggs.
Saute some garlic and onions in a pan. Add the sliced mushrooms. Cook for about a minute or two then add the carrots then the cauliflower. Season with oyster sauce and a little bit of soy sauce and or curry if you want. Add about half a cup of water to the pan. Mix. Bring to a boil then lower heat. Season with a tiny pinch of sea salt and pepper. Taste. Add the boiled quail eggs and turn off the heat.

CJ8 JEEP LIFT

webmaster — Tue, 20 Mar 2012 16:13:42 +0000

I have a stock 1983 cj8 jeep. I’m wanting to put different leaf springs under it, along with shackles. I want to know what jeep years would interchange. I once was told that the newer jeep leafs will fit and lift. I don’t know what make and model or how hard it would be to switch out? Also will cj7 shackles work?

’76-’86 leaf springs are the same, but none of these (stock ones anyway) will lift your Jeep higher than it is now, unless your current springs are completely shot/sagging. All CJ shackles (again from ’76-’86) are interchangeable between CJ-5, CJ-7 and CJ-8.

The only Scrambler specific items are things that are affected by the wheelbase difference between a 7 and an 8 like the rear driveshaft. Because of the extra wheelbase length, you can typically keep your stock rear shaft and not run a t-case drop or switch to a CV shaft with a 4″ suspension lift. I’d suggest reading the driveshaft tech articles at 4xshaft.com so that you can gain an understanding.

The leaf springs are shot. I’m just looking for 2-3 lift from stock height. Will I need any other hardware if I put stock leafs and 2″-2″1/4 shackles (lengthen brake lines etc)?
What would be a good low cost suspension lift say, 4″-5″? What would be other hardware that would be needed? (pitman arm, lines. etc)?

So it sounds like you want to replace worn out springs and also do a lift. Why not get a set of lift springs? Doing a 2 1/2″ lift with just shackles requires shackles that are 4″ longer than stock shackles.
Check with Quadratec or 4wd Hardware catalogs, lots of options in there.

Amount & type of lift will determine what else you need to do. Typically, if you stick with a 2 1/2″ suspension lift you don’t have to mess with much else. Tall shackle lifts are a bad idea, throws the front end geometry (caster) out of whack, detracts from lateral stability, can affect ride quality, and flat out looks goofy.

Now, exactly how much lift are you after? Also what size tires are you planning to run with that lift? Larger tires often lead to needing to do other things like re-gearing and installing 1-piece axle shafts in the AMC 20 rear.

I want to run 33′s or 35′s. I want good ground clearance but still be very road functional.

At 35′s, you’re definitely drifting into more modifications & money. You’ll need 4″+ of lift which means you’ll definitely need to look over that driveshaft tech info, install longer brake hoses, address the steering, beef up the AMC 20 rear, re-gear, and depending on usage beef up the Dana 30 front as well.
You’re probably going to want to stick with 33′s…the stock axles can safely handle that without beefing them up (though you may still want to do the 1-piece shafts in the rear), unless you’ve got 2.73′s you’ll be on the border of whether or not you’ll want/need to re-gear, and you can use a 2.5″ lift and maybe supplement it with some heavy duty greaseable shackles.

Another option is a spring over. It will give you an additional three inches to any new spring installation, Procomp and Skyjacker are two both good installations for the same lift. Procomp will give you a stiffer ride. Skyjacker is some what softer. Just remember to install longer shocks, brake lines (Mid 80,s chevy trucks will work), pitman arm (4″ offset), correct stabilizer linkage, rear angle block (6 deg), etc. Look at my two scramblers on www.raysjeeps,net, one street and one off road.

Another note about bigger tires. I recommend not putting the maximum air pressure in them.

Lower the air pressure by 5-7 lbs. You may not get the best gas milage but will have a softer ride. Jeeps do not get very good milage anyway.

CJ JEEP BED REPAIRS

webmaster — Tue, 20 Mar 2012 16:06:58 +0000

I’m looking for someone who may have pieces of rear bed panel that they are
willing to part with to make repair from what looks to be fertilizer spill. Or can you do the repairs yourself? In particular the left rear 10″ between the rear floor support/rollbar brace and tailgate end support. Bed is in good condition otherwise and do not want to replace the entire bed. Any help or advice would be most appreciated.

You can get replacement panels at http://www.classicent.com/jeep.php

I have a picture of the bed.

Thanks for the pic, more or less I could use any section to make repairs needed as the profile of the ribs should align. I feel that finding exactly the same area that is rotted out is slim due to being welded into the tailgate support. A much larger area would have to be cut out to get to weldable metal. I have used replacement pieces (corners, floor supports, and foot boards) from Classicent before however the ribs on the bed panel have a different profile than OEM.

Very interested and will cover cost of goods and your service, within reason of course.

Scrambler half cab shoulder seat belts

webmaster — Wed, 07 Mar 2012 14:53:09 +0000

You have several options on the harness straps that are for Scrambler half tops.

There are at least three versions of the roll bar for the Scrambler that I have seen.

One with the nuts preassembled/welded on the inside of the vertical roll bar near the top.

This version all you have to do is bolt the single shoulder harness strap on.

Two with only holes drilled in the vertical roll bar near the top (longer bolts are required).
No holes for the after market roll bar.

Now you have other options if you want the double harness.

Weld a horizontal tube, 11/2” sch 40 pipe, to the main vertical members and bolt the harnesses to it. Preferably around your shoulder height. This is normally only for the short seats.
Weld plates to the top horizontal bar and bolt your harnesses to them. This is good for both the low and the high seats.

Remember that for the half tops the roll bar is on the outside and for an after market full top the roll bar is inside the top. This presents other problems in putting holes in the half top and sealing it. There are issues of the bolts being big, longer and strong enough to hold the inertia with the single harness. It definitely depends on the type of driving that you will be doing with your Scrambler.

Jeep PTO history

webmaster — Wed, 07 Mar 2012 14:48:16 +0000

THE PTO: there are different PTO units for different applications. Make sure you get the correct one for your vehicle. Don’t trust a seller to give you the correct application. More often than not they don’t know and say it fits vehicles it won’t (“fits jeeps”). For example, the models 40, 41, 48, 50, 51, and 58 all mate to a Dana 18 transfer case found on early civilian jeeps. However, the 40 and 41 only fit the truck, wagon, or sedan delivery frame and cannot be used on a CJ. The 50, 51, and 58 were designed to only fit the CJ. Also of importance is where the PTO sends the power (front or rear). The 41 and 51 only send power to the front and have a single shift handle. The models 40, 48, 50, and 58 send power to front but also to the rear. These units have two shift handles. The 40 and 50 power both front and rear together (both on or both off). The 48 and 58 allow selective use of implements (front only, rear only, both, or neither). Twin stick PTOs are rare and cost accordingly.

THE DRIVE SHAFTS AND U-JOINTS: the jeep drive shafts are all 7/8″ diameter steel bar stock with machined in keyway slots. Woodruff keys index the u-joints to the slots in the shafts. The shaft lengths vary by application. To circumvent typical obstacles (crossmembers, exhaust, clutch linkage, etc), a common application will have two shafts, three u-joints, and a center support bearing. For example the early CJ uses a 27 3/8″ front shaft and a 22″ rear shaft. The jeep truck, jeep wagon, or jeep sedan delivery uses a 31.5″ long front shaft and a 17.75″ rear.

Three different jeep universal joints are used in each setup. The front u-joint has one 7/8″ opening with a 3/16″ keyway and one 7/8″ opening with a 1/4″ keyway. The center u-joint has one 7/8″ opening with a 1/4″ keyway and one 7/8″ opening with a 1/4″ keyway. The rear u-joint has one 7/8″ opening with a 1/4″ keyway and one 1″ opening with a 1/4″ keyway. Note all shafts use 1/4″ keyways, but the winch uses a 3/16″ keyway and the PTO, which uses the 1/4″ keyway has a larger 1″ output shaft.

Detailing your Jeep

webmaster — Wed, 07 Mar 2012 14:41:22 +0000

Engine detailing is an expensive process which should usually begin with the rebuilding of almost all of the engine bays components including the engine itself. If you are removing your motor to overhaul and detail it then it’s pretty easy. You can still detail the engine compartment without rebuilding your motor.

We all like a nice clean engine compartment but how do you go about cleaning off the accumulations of years of leaked oil, road tar, sand and mud? A lot of it will actually have to be physically scraped off. No matter what kind of engine degreaser that you use, none of them will eat through a half inch of dirt and oil accumulation around the bottom of the motor. You can jack the car up and put it on stands. Use putty knifes and scrapers with different blade widths. Steel brushes with good stiff bristles also work.

Once you have gotten off the heavy accumulations, you can start to use engine degreasers. Degreasers are available at most automotive suppliers,hardware stores and grocery stores. To get the best results it is a good idea to follow the instructions as different solutions require different applications to work properly. It is also a good idea to find out about disposal of the dirty water. You don’t want to degrease your motor and find that you now have a toxic waste site in the middle of your lawn which won’t allow grass to grow for years. Some are environmentally friendly, some are not.
If you are not worried about the paint in your engine compartment Easy Off is actually one of the best and cheapest degreasers going, but it will also remove most paints or at least damage them so take that into consideration if you opt for using it. Paint damage may also result from the use of some other industrial grade degreasers.

Use common sense when you are applying water to the engine and compartment. The local car wash is one of the best bets. You should rinse your motor with hot water and then either as much pressure as you can get from the garden hose or ideally a small pressure washer, but you must make sure not to force water into the engine through its carburetor or any of the vents or breathers. A rag thrown over the top of the carb won’t do it. Use duct tape and plastic to seal up your carb, oil dip stick tube and whatever vents and breathers that you have. Later, when you are cleaning by hand you can remove valve covers, caps, wires, vacuum hoses, etc.

Use a good high temp engine paint. Naturally by taping, masking and holding a small cardboard strip you can put the paint from the can nearly anywhere you want.

I just finished detailing a 1981 CJ8 and it took me over a week.

2012 RAYSJEEPS annual Chili & Gumbo cookoff

webmaster — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 09:40:34 +0000

RAYSJEEPS is planning our annual chili and gumbo cookoff. Coming soon in the spring of 2012. First and Second place trophies. And, for Showmanship, the winning team gets ??? Teams can use any combination of meat and beans. IE beef, pork, chicken, wild game, quail, duck, possum, kidney, pinto, chilli, black, blackeyed, canneillini, garbanzo, etc

Updated parts list #2

webmaster — Mon, 05 Dec 2011 17:36:12 +0000

Select the parts including description, part number and cost for each. Then copy all of the information pertaining to that part into an Email (in the Contacts page). We will get back to you within 2 days.

7437 $30.00 Front bumper OEM – U-channel type
7438 $40.00 Bumperettes rear OEM – black
7820 $60.00 CJ carpet sets, various configurations, red and gray
8002 $600.00 CJ5 hardtop new hatch struts
8003 $40.00 Car ramps poly 6k lb rating
8005 $125.00 CJ YJ leather steering wheel, excellent condition, each (Maroon, Tan, Spice)
8006 $30.00 Horn button matching CJ YJ leather steering wheel, excellent condition, each (Maroon, Tan, Spice)
8025 $350.00 Jeep high back seats new black, adjustable back settings
8027 $15.00 Seat bracket OEM driver’s, does not tilt
8028 $40.00 Seat bracket OEM passenger’s, tilts forward (2 each) – price is for each
8029 $40.00 Locking glove box with bracket, no key
8032 $30.00 CJ door hinges – one door set
8033 $30.00 CJ windshield hinges – one set
8002 $750.00 CJ hardtop – has rare Levi roof liner excellent shape
8041T $125.00 Windows for half doors, pair – tan, fits CJ7/CJ8/YJ 1981 – 1995 (square edges)
8041W $125.00 Windows for half doors, pair – white, fits CJ7/CJ8/YJ 1981 – 1995 (square edges)
8042B $125.00 Windows for half doors, pair – black, fits CJ7/CJ8/YJ 1981 – 1995 (square edges)
8043B $125.00 Windows for half doors, pair – black, fits CJ7/CJ8/YJ 1981 – 1995 (round edges)
8044B $500.00 Half hard doors, pair – black, fits CJ7/CJ8/YJ 1981 – 1995
8044W $500.00 Half hard doors, pair – white, fits CJ7/CJ8/YJ 1981 – 1995
8045B $75.00 Mirrors for half hard doors, pair – black, fits CJ7/CJ8/YJ 1981 – 1995
8048 $125.00 Half soft doors, pair – black, fits CJ7/CJ8/YJ 1981 – 1995 (2 sets)
8050 $100.00 CJ7/CJ8 tailgate in reasonably good condition, drilled for snaps, needs gasket
8052 $75.00 CJ back tailgate brackets – one set
8055 $250.00 CJ swing out spare tire carrier, complete with all brackets
8070G $50.00 CJ dash, gray, has cracks
8076 $20.00 Windshield wiper tank OEM
8087 $50.00 CJ Front winch mounting brackets OEM

Updated parts list #1

webmaster — Mon, 05 Dec 2011 17:18:58 +0000

1741 $40.00 CJ brake & clutch pedal assembly with switch
1750 $20.00 Cooling fan / clutch (2 each) – price is for each
1755 $15.00 CJ starter, alternator – price is for each
1760 $50.00 Drive shaft from CJ7, various transmission configurations, one was recently rebuilt – price is for each
1766 $30.00 CJ front rotors, excellent shape. Only need rust film removed (btwn .001 – .003) – price is for each
1795 $200.00 CJ air conditioning evaporator unit – inside, under dash unit only & Condenser ( no compressor)
1796 $125.00 CJ air conditioning bracket assembly
2010 $30.00 Aluminum spacer plate for bell housing (2 each) – price is for each
3001 $20.00 CJ brake & clutch rubber pedal pads – new set
3002 $10.00 CJ brake & clutch rubber pedal pads – used set
3004 $25.00 CJ hood spring latches new complete set
3005 $15.00 CJ hood spring latches used
3006 $25.00 CJ hood hinges – set new black
3007 $25.00 CJ hood hinges – set used chrome
3008 $30.00 Speedometer/fuel gage/oil pressure cluster
3009 $40.00 CJ horn – new OEM black
3010 $35.00 CJ dash light set – new 6 pieces
3011 $25.00 CJ inside door pulls – used set
3012 $12.00 CJ glove box button – no key type
3013 $15.00 CJ glove box button – lock assembly without key
3014 $40.00 CJ Bushing kit – new one inch
3015 $20.00 CJ door pads – used set
3016 $20.00 CJ hood light – OEM rare
3017 $12.00 Plastic loom clamps
3018 $20.00 CJ Tailgate latch,spring, bolt – one only
3019 $15.00 CJ rubber hood bumpers that attach to radiator frame – OM rare used
3020 $20.00 CJ heater switch – new with knob
3021 $15.00 BWD Automotive R3107 Starter Relay
3022 $50.00 CJ YJ yoke Splicer 2519 – new
3023 $12.00 CJ YJ inside door restraining straps, 6 inches long set
3024 $10.00 Personalized document holder for your glove compartment
3025 $40.00 CJ ignition control module – Duralast F102
3026 $12.00 Clip on mirror for the sunvisor
3027 $15.00 Footman loop sets
3028 $30.00 CJ soft door latches, brackets, bolts
3029 $10.00 Spare tire cover camo
3030 $40.00 Spare tire cover – rare OEM with Jeep emblem black

3031 $20.00 Shock sets – several configurations used
3032 $10.00 CJ frame and body brackets – several configurations used
3033 $15.00 CJ tow hooks
3035 $35.00 CJ YJ roll bar pads
3036 $20.00 YJ wrangler spare tire bracket
3037 $15.00 CJ grill support rods
3038 $30.00 CJ YJ driver side slider bracket