Posted on January 9th, 2015 No comments
RAYSJEEPS is planning our annual chili and gumbo cookoff. Coming soon in the spring of 2015.
First and Second place trophies.
And, for Showmanship, the winning team gets ???
Teams can use any combination of meat and beans. IE wild game, quail, beef, pork, chicken, duck, possum, kidney, pinto, chilli, black, blackeyed, canneillini, garbanzo, etc
Posted on March 24th, 2014 No comments
RAYSJEEPS is planning our annual chili and gumbo cookoff. Coming soon in the spring of 2014. First and Second place trophies. And, for Showmanship, the winning team gets ??? Teams can use any combination of meat and beans. IE beef, pork, chicken, wild game, quail, duck, possum, kidney, pinto, chilli, black, blackeyed, canneillini, garbanzo, etc
Posted on January 26th, 2014 No comments
Engine detailing is an expensive process which should usually begin with the rebuilding of almost all of the engine bays components including the engine itself. If you are removing your motor to overhaul and detail it then it’s pretty easy. You can still detail the engine compartment without rebuilding your motor.
We all like a nice clean engine compartment but how do you go about cleaning off the accumulations of years of leaked oil, road tar, sand and mud? A lot of it will actually have to be physically scraped off. No matter what kind of engine degreaser that you use, none of them will eat through a half inch of dirt and oil accumulation around the bottom of the motor. You can jack the car up and put it on stands. Use putty knifes and scrapers with different blade widths. Steel brushes with good stiff bristles also work.
Once you have gotten off the heavy accumulations, you can start to use engine degreasers. Degreasers are available at most automotive suppliers,hardware stores and grocery stores. To get the best results it is a good idea to follow the instructions as different solutions require different applications to work properly. It is also a good idea to find out about disposal of the dirty water. You don’t want to degrease your motor and find that you now have a toxic waste site in the middle of your lawn which won’t allow grass to grow for years. Some are environmentally friendly, some are not.
If you are not worried about the paint in your engine compartment Easy Off is actually one of the best and cheapest degreasers going, but it will also remove most paints or at least damage them so take that into consideration if you opt for using it. Paint damage may also result from the use of some other industrial grade degreasers.
Use common sense when you are applying water to the engine and compartment. The local car wash is one of the best bets. You should rinse your motor with hot water and then either as much pressure as you can get from the garden hose or ideally a small pressure washer, but you must make sure not to force water into the engine through its carburetor or any of the vents or breathers. A rag thrown over the top of the carb won’t do it. Use duct tape and plastic to seal up your carb, oil dip stick tube and whatever vents and breathers that you have. Later, when you are cleaning by hand you can remove valve covers, caps, wires, vacuum hoses, etc.
Use a good high temp engine paint. Naturally by taping, masking and holding a small cardboard strip you can put the paint from the can nearly anywhere you want.
I just finished detailing a 1981 CJ8 and it took me over a week.
Posted on December 21st, 2013 No comments
Brined & Smoked Turkey
Turkey, 2 quarts cold water, 1 cup kosher salt, ½ cup granulated sugar,1 turkey
1/2 cup ancho chile powder, 5 tablespoons light brown sugar, 2 tablespoon ground cumin,
4 teaspoons ground cinnamon, 1 tablespoon ground black pepper, Vegetable oil
1. Place water in a large bowl or plastic container. Whisk in salt and sugar and let sit 5 minutes to dissolve. Add the turkey, cover and let sit in the refrigerator for 6 hours.
2. Stir together the ancho powder, brown sugar, cumin, cinnamon and black pepper in small bowl.
3. Heat grill to about 400 deg. Remove turkey from the brine solution and rinse well under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Rub the skin side of the turkey with the rub. Using tongs, dip paper towels into the oil and oil the grates of the grill. Place the turkey on the grill, rub-side down and grill until slightly charred and a crust has formed, about 15 minutes. Reduce the heat of the grill to around 350 deg, turn the turkey over and continue cooking, with the lid closed for about 2 hours or until a thermometer inserted into the center of the breast registers 155 degrees. Remove from the heat, loosely tent with foil and let rest 10 minutes before slicing. Slice into ½-inch thick slices.
Posted on December 12th, 2013 No comments
1 pound venison, 1 clove minced garlic, 1-1/2 cups chopped onion,
1/2 tsp vegetable-flavored bouillon powder, 1 tsp salt,
1 8-oz can tomato sauce, 1 can diced tomatoes, 4 oz of tomato paste,
4 tsp Worcestershire sauce, 4 tsp red wine vinegar, 2 tsp each Tabasco, basil, rosemary,
marjoram and freshly ground black pepper,
2 tsp each oregano, chili powder, paprika and sugar
1 bay leaf, 1-1/2 cups chopped green pepper, 4 oz. thinly sliced fresh mushrooms,
1-1/2 cup minced fresh parsley,
Brown the meat and garlic over medium heat. Mix the bouillon powder with 3/4 cup water and add onion. Combine remaining ingredients in large, heavy pot. Add meat, garlic, onions, and bouillon.
Simmer on for about 1 hour. Serve over cooked spaghetti.
Posted on October 27th, 2013 No comments
Try some of these recipes.
Go to :
Posted on October 27th, 2013 No comments
This recipe calls for 10 quail
Saute quail just like chicken to get outside slightly brown
Add 6 prunes and blend on high
Depit a can of plums
Blend plums into a sauce
Add salt, pepper and Tonys to taste
Transfer to a oven tested serving dish
Garnish with canned artichoke hearts
Posted on March 18th, 2013 No comments
Pre-cook 3 lbs. dry kidney or pinto beans. Slightly pan fry (brown) one pound of quail (about 4) in olive oil. All other ingredients = 16 oz. stewed tomatoes (undrained), 2 oz. Jalapeno sauce, one large 1015 onion (chunked), 4 garlic clove (smashed), one table spoon Tony’s, dash of salt & pepper, one cup broken tortilla chips (optional), 2 tbsp chile powder, 2 tbsp. cumin.
Add all ingredients into the large pot of cooked beans. Bring to a boil and then simmer 30 minutes to heat and cook thoroughly.
Posted on March 18th, 2013 No comments
Dutch oven quail – Roll eight quail in equal combination of flour, cornmeal and Cajun shake.
Preheat about one half cup of fat/olive oil piping hot in dutch oven.
Brown birds quickly on both sides.
Then add a one cup of water, place lid and turn fire low to let simmer for one hour.
Posted on December 27th, 2012 No comments
Hard to believe !! The same groups won as last year !!
First place went to the River Rats and second place went to the Salty Dogs.
Cannot comment on the showmanship – wow??!!
RAYSJEEPS is planning our annual chili and gumbo cookoff. Coming soon in the spring of 2013 (late April) . First and Second place trophies. And, for Showmanship, the winning team gets ??? Teams can use any combination of meat and beans. IE beef, pork, chicken, wild game, quail, duck, possum, kidney, pinto, chilli, black, blackeyed, canneillini, garbanzo, etc
Posted on December 27th, 2012 No comments
For proper current flow to exist the circuit must have the correct source voltage applied and be free of any unwanted resistance in the circuit and the best way to test this is to measure voltage drop in the circuit.
Here are the steps to take to perform a voltage drop test:
1. Connect your DVOM negative lead to the battery’s negative post.
2. Connect your DVOM positive lead to the battery’s positive post and measure its voltage. Record this reading.
3. Connect your DVOM positive lead to the positive side of the load being tested, as close to the load as possible.
4. Operate the circuit, and record your measurement.
5. Connect your DVOM positive lead to the negative side of the load being tested, as close to the load as possible.
6. Operate the circuit and record your measurement.
Let’s take a closer look at these steps. First, we want to test the integrity of the ENTIRE circuit so placing your test leads at the battery is a must. You can make an extension lead for your DVOM so you can always connect to the battery ground terminal with your negative meter lead. Second, it is important to know the source voltage available. If the battery is weak to start with your circuit is already working with a handicap.
In the third step, you are making sure all that source voltage is getting to the load component. Getting as close to the load as possible insures you are testing the entire path. On the positive side of the load you should read within 0.50 volts of your source voltage, i.e. if you started with 14.56 volts you should read no less than 14.06 volts. This applies to most basic circuits. If you are diagnosing a PCM/ECM related circuit you may want to see even less than that.
In step #5, you are looking for unwanted voltage drops in your load downstream because all the voltage should have been used by the load. If you get a voltage reading of 0.50v or more here there is something else taking voltage from the primary component. This unwanted source may be ultimately found downstream of the load maybe even at the battery connection itself.
Some voltage measurement on the ground side of a working load is normal. If an open to ground exists you will measure source voltage on both sides of the load. If the ground side measures 0.0 volts and the component is receiving correct source voltage then the load likely has an internal open AKA you have a failed component.
A common mistake is to use a chassis ground under the dash when testing inside the car.; but don’t forget that chassis ground point still has to make it back to the battery typically through a few more connections before the ground path is complete.
Posted on October 1st, 2012 No comments
The factory roll cage is good enough for street driving but when you go off roading you really need the full roll bar cage system. Some are bolted in and some are welded in. There are after market bolt-ins with CNC clamps. These half collar clamps work well when you do not want weld to the factory roll cage.
Look at the PIC of how my set up is on my offroad Scrambler. The extended vertical roll bars extend through the bed and weld directly to the frame using 90 deg sweeping elbows. There are frame tie-in kits available from Rock Hard for a little over $100 but you can make them yourself if you are mechanically inclined.
There are brackets that mount behind the dash, extends down to the floor, with a plate at the floor and a plate under the floor. This bracket fits inside the door post channel so snug to the body that it does not interfere with the use of the emergency brake or release handle.
Posted on July 11th, 2012 No comments
Take any deer backstrap and do the following preparations:
1. For one side of backstrap cut into 4″ lengths
2. Butterfly the cut sections
3. Tenderize both sides
4. Season with Tony’s, Montreal Steak Rub, Cajon Rub
5. Cook on gas grill for about 3 minites per side
6. Remove & cut into thin slices & add to your flour taco
7. Add cheese, picante sauce, cilantro, onions, etc
8. Start eating
Posted on July 11th, 2012 No comments
Ray’s Blue Smoke BBQ – pork or beef ribsRAY’S Mustard Dry Rub Recipe contains the following ingredients:
2 tablespoons seasalt 2 tablespoons black pepper corns medium hand ground 4 tablespoons brown sugar 2 tablespoons garlic 6 tablespoons mustard seed medium hand groundUse 2 tablespoons for every pound of ribs, apply generously and smoke
Posted on June 9th, 2012 No comments
I am going to go with outboard springs on my Jeep when I switch to early Bronco or GM axles. I was reading through some old threads on axle swaps and was thinking about when I do my axle swap. Instead of reinventing the wheel I would like to see some pictures of what you and others have done.
Lookup at my website www.raysjeeps.net
Go to the Service page and find the off-road scrambler. Sample
Posted on April 13th, 2012 No comments
Use 6 quail for this recipe
1 1/2 cups Bechamel Sauce
1 pound of bacon done to a crisp
1 tsp. garlic powder
1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
2 tbsp. green onion, finely chopped
1 half cup Sherry
salt and pepper
Split and flatten quail. Then cook quail in chicken stock, onions, salt, pepper and garlic powder.
Make Bechamel (white sauce ) adding crisp bacon and parmesan cheese.
Heavily butter a baking pan. Then add cooked quail and cover with bbechamel sauce. Dot with black olives. Cover with foil
Heat oven to 250 degrees F. Simmer at 250 degrees for 15-20 minutes to meld flavors. Serve in baking pan. Save stock for making gravey for mashed potatoes
Posted on April 13th, 2012 No comments
Here’s an easy and quick dish I whipped up.
You will need some carrots, shiitake mushrooms, cauliflower and boiled quail eggs.
Saute some garlic and onions in a pan. Add the sliced mushrooms. Cook for about a minute or two then add the carrots then the cauliflower. Season with oyster sauce and a little bit of soy sauce and or curry if you want. Add about half a cup of water to the pan. Mix. Bring to a boil then lower heat. Season with a tiny pinch of sea salt and pepper. Taste. Add the boiled quail eggs and turn off the heat.
Posted on March 20th, 2012 1 comment
I have a stock 1983 cj8 jeep. I’m wanting to put different leaf springs under it, along with shackles. I want to know what jeep years would interchange. I once was told that the newer jeep leafs will fit and lift. I don’t know what make and model or how hard it would be to switch out? Also will cj7 shackles work?
’76-’86 leaf springs are the same, but none of these (stock ones anyway) will lift your Jeep higher than it is now, unless your current springs are completely shot/sagging. All CJ shackles (again from ’76-’86) are interchangeable between CJ-5, CJ-7 and CJ-8.
The only Scrambler specific items are things that are affected by the wheelbase difference between a 7 and an 8 like the rear driveshaft. Because of the extra wheelbase length, you can typically keep your stock rear shaft and not run a t-case drop or switch to a CV shaft with a 4″ suspension lift. I’d suggest reading the driveshaft tech articles at 4xshaft.com so that you can gain an understanding.
The leaf springs are shot. I’m just looking for 2-3 lift from stock height. Will I need any other hardware if I put stock leafs and 2″-2″1/4 shackles (lengthen brake lines etc)?
What would be a good low cost suspension lift say, 4″-5″? What would be other hardware that would be needed? (pitman arm, lines. etc)?
So it sounds like you want to replace worn out springs and also do a lift. Why not get a set of lift springs? Doing a 2 1/2″ lift with just shackles requires shackles that are 4″ longer than stock shackles.
Check with Quadratec or 4wd Hardware catalogs, lots of options in there.
Amount & type of lift will determine what else you need to do. Typically, if you stick with a 2 1/2″ suspension lift you don’t have to mess with much else. Tall shackle lifts are a bad idea, throws the front end geometry (caster) out of whack, detracts from lateral stability, can affect ride quality, and flat out looks goofy.
Now, exactly how much lift are you after? Also what size tires are you planning to run with that lift? Larger tires often lead to needing to do other things like re-gearing and installing 1-piece axle shafts in the AMC 20 rear.
I want to run 33′s or 35′s. I want good ground clearance but still be very road functional.
At 35′s, you’re definitely drifting into more modifications & money. You’ll need 4″+ of lift which means you’ll definitely need to look over that driveshaft tech info, install longer brake hoses, address the steering, beef up the AMC 20 rear, re-gear, and depending on usage beef up the Dana 30 front as well.
You’re probably going to want to stick with 33′s…the stock axles can safely handle that without beefing them up (though you may still want to do the 1-piece shafts in the rear), unless you’ve got 2.73′s you’ll be on the border of whether or not you’ll want/need to re-gear, and you can use a 2.5″ lift and maybe supplement it with some heavy duty greaseable shackles.
Another option is a spring over. It will give you an additional three inches to any new spring installation, Procomp and Skyjacker are two both good installations for the same lift. Procomp will give you a stiffer ride. Skyjacker is some what softer. Just remember to install longer shocks, brake lines (Mid 80,s chevy trucks will work), pitman arm (4″ offset), correct stabilizer linkage, rear angle block (6 deg), etc. Look at my two scramblers on www.raysjeeps,net, one street and one off road.
Another note about bigger tires. I recommend not putting the maximum air pressure in them.
Lower the air pressure by 5-7 lbs. You may not get the best gas milage but will have a softer ride. Jeeps do not get very good milage anyway.
Posted on March 20th, 2012 No comments
I’m looking for someone who may have pieces of rear bed panel that they are
willing to part with to make repair from what looks to be fertilizer spill. Or can you do the repairs yourself? In particular the left rear 10″ between the rear floor support/rollbar brace and tailgate end support. Bed is in good condition otherwise and do not want to replace the entire bed. Any help or advice would be most appreciated.
You can get replacement panels at http://www.classicent.com/jeep.php
I have a picture of the bed.
Thanks for the pic, more or less I could use any section to make repairs needed as the profile of the ribs should align. I feel that finding exactly the same area that is rotted out is slim due to being welded into the tailgate support. A much larger area would have to be cut out to get to weldable metal. I have used replacement pieces (corners, floor supports, and foot boards) from Classicent before however the ribs on the bed panel have a different profile than OEM.
Very interested and will cover cost of goods and your service, within reason of course.
Posted on March 7th, 2012 No comments
You have several options on the harness straps that are for Scrambler half tops.
There are at least three versions of the roll bar for the Scrambler that I have seen.
- One with the nuts preassembled/welded on the inside of the vertical roll bar near the top.
This version all you have to do is bolt the single shoulder harness strap on.
- Two with only holes drilled in the vertical roll bar near the top (longer bolts are required).
- No holes for the after market roll bar.
Now you have other options if you want the double harness.
- Weld a horizontal tube, 11/2” sch 40 pipe, to the main vertical members and bolt the harnesses to it. Preferably around your shoulder height. This is normally only for the short seats.
- Weld plates to the top horizontal bar and bolt your harnesses to them. This is good for both the low and the high seats.
Remember that for the half tops the roll bar is on the outside and for an after market full top the roll bar is inside the top. This presents other problems in putting holes in the half top and sealing it. There are issues of the bolts being big, longer and strong enough to hold the inertia with the single harness. It definitely depends on the type of driving that you will be doing with your Scrambler.