RAYSJEEPS .NET

Parmesan quail

Use 6 quail for this recipe
1 1/2 cups Bechamel Sauce
1 pound of bacon done to a crisp
1 tsp. garlic powder
1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
2 tbsp. green onion, finely chopped
1 half cup Sherry
salt and pepper

Split and flatten quail. Then cook quail in chicken stock, onions, salt, pepper and garlic powder.

Make Bechamel (white sauce ) adding crisp bacon and parmesan cheese.

Heavily butter a baking pan. Then add cooked quail and cover with bbechamel sauce. Dot with black olives. Cover with foil

Heat oven to 250 degrees F. Simmer at 250 degrees for 15-20 minutes to meld flavors. Serve in baking pan. Save stock for making gravey for mashed potatoes

Quail eggs with mixed veggies

Here’s an easy and quick dish I whipped up.
You will need some carrots, shiitake mushrooms, cauliflower and boiled quail eggs.
Saute some garlic and onions in a pan. Add the sliced mushrooms. Cook for about a minute or two then add the carrots then the cauliflower. Season with oyster sauce and a little bit of soy sauce and or curry if you want. Add about half a cup of water to the pan. Mix. Bring to a boil then lower heat. Season with a tiny pinch of sea salt and pepper. Taste. Add the boiled quail eggs and turn off the heat.

CJ8 JEEP LIFT

Q

I have a stock 1983 cj8 jeep. I’m wanting to put different leaf springs under it, along with shackles. I want to know what jeep years would interchange. I once was told that the newer jeep leafs will fit and lift. I don’t know what make and model or how hard it would be to switch out? Also will cj7 shackles work?

A

’76-’86 leaf springs are the same, but none of these (stock ones anyway) will lift your Jeep higher than it is now, unless your current springs are completely shot/sagging. All CJ shackles (again from ’76-’86) are interchangeable between CJ-5, CJ-7 and CJ-8.

The only Scrambler specific items are things that are affected by the wheelbase difference between a 7 and an 8 like the rear driveshaft. Because of the extra wheelbase length, you can typically keep your stock rear shaft and not run a t-case drop or switch to a CV shaft with a 4″ suspension lift. I’d suggest reading the driveshaft tech articles at 4xshaft.com so that you can gain an understanding.

Q

The leaf springs are shot. I’m just looking for 2-3 lift from stock height. Will I need any other hardware if I put stock leafs and 2″-2″1/4 shackles (lengthen brake lines etc)?
What would be a good low cost suspension lift say, 4″-5″? What would be other hardware that would be needed? (pitman arm, lines. etc)?

A

So it sounds like you want to replace worn out springs and also do a lift. Why not get a set of lift springs? Doing a 2 1/2″ lift with just shackles requires shackles that are 4″ longer than stock shackles.
Check with Quadratec or 4wd Hardware catalogs, lots of options in there.

Amount & type of lift will determine what else you need to do. Typically, if you stick with a 2 1/2″ suspension lift you don’t have to mess with much else. Tall shackle lifts are a bad idea, throws the front end geometry (caster) out of whack, detracts from lateral stability, can affect ride quality, and flat out looks goofy.

Now, exactly how much lift are you after? Also what size tires are you planning to run with that lift? Larger tires often lead to needing to do other things like re-gearing and installing 1-piece axle shafts in the AMC 20 rear.

Q

I want to run 33′s or 35′s. I want good ground clearance but still be very road functional.

A

At 35′s, you’re definitely drifting into more modifications & money. You’ll need 4″+ of lift which means you’ll definitely need to look over that driveshaft tech info, install longer brake hoses, address the steering, beef up the AMC 20 rear, re-gear, and depending on usage beef up the Dana 30 front as well.
You’re probably going to want to stick with 33′s…the stock axles can safely handle that without beefing them up (though you may still want to do the 1-piece shafts in the rear), unless you’ve got 2.73′s you’ll be on the border of whether or not you’ll want/need to re-gear, and you can use a 2.5″ lift and maybe supplement it with some heavy duty greaseable shackles.

Another option is a spring over. It will give you an additional three inches to any new spring installation, Procomp and Skyjacker are two both good installations for the same lift. Procomp will give you a stiffer ride. Skyjacker is some what softer. Just remember to install longer shocks, brake lines (Mid 80,s chevy trucks will work), pitman arm (4″ offset), correct stabilizer linkage, rear angle block (6 deg), etc. Look at my two scramblers on www.raysjeeps,net, one street and one off road.

Another note about bigger tires. I recommend not putting the maximum air pressure in them.

Lower the air pressure by 5-7 lbs. You may not get the best gas milage but will have a softer ride. Jeeps do not get very good milage anyway.

CJ JEEP BED REPAIRS

I’m looking for someone who may have pieces of rear bed panel that they are
willing to part with to make repair from what looks to be fertilizer spill. Or can you do the repairs yourself?  In particular the left rear 10″ between the rear floor support/rollbar brace and tailgate end support. Bed is in good condition otherwise and do not want to replace the entire bed. Any help or advice would be most appreciated.

You can get replacement panels at http://www.classicent.com/jeep.php

I have a picture of the bed.

Thanks for the pic, more or less I could use any section to make repairs needed as the profile of the ribs should align. I feel that finding exactly the same area that is rotted out is slim due to being welded into the tailgate support. A much larger area would have to be cut out to get to weldable metal. I have used replacement pieces (corners, floor supports, and foot boards) from Classicent before however the ribs on the bed panel have a different profile than OEM.

Very interested and will cover cost of goods and your service, within reason of course.

Scrambler half cab shoulder seat belts

You have several options on the harness straps that are for Scrambler half tops.

There are at least three versions of the roll bar for the Scrambler that I have seen.

1. One with the nuts preassembled/welded on the inside of the vertical roll bar near the top.

This version all you have to do is bolt the single shoulder harness strap on.

1. Two with only holes drilled in the vertical roll bar near the top (longer bolts are required).
2. No holes for the after market roll bar.

Now you have other options if you want the double harness.

1. Weld a horizontal tube, 11/2” sch 40 pipe, to the main vertical members and bolt the harnesses to it. Preferably around your shoulder height. This is normally only for the short seats.
2. Weld plates to the top horizontal bar and bolt your harnesses to them. This is good for both the low and the high seats.

Remember that for the half tops the roll bar is on the outside and for an after market full top the roll bar is inside the top. This presents other problems in putting holes in the half top and sealing it. There are issues of the bolts being big, longer and strong enough to hold the inertia with the single harness. It definitely depends on the type of driving that you will be doing with your Scrambler.

Jeep PTO history

THE PTO: there are different PTO units for different applications. Make sure you get the correct one for your vehicle. Don’t trust a seller to give you the correct application. More often than not they don’t know and say it fits vehicles it won’t (“fits jeeps”). For example, the models 40, 41, 48, 50, 51, and 58 all mate to a Dana 18 transfer case found on early civilian jeeps. However, the 40 and 41 only fit the truck, wagon, or sedan delivery frame and cannot be used on a CJ. The 50, 51, and 58 were designed to only fit the CJ. Also of importance is where the PTO sends the power (front or rear). The 41 and 51 only send power to the front and have a single shift handle. The models 40, 48, 50, and 58 send power to front but also to the rear. These units have two shift handles. The 40 and 50 power both front and rear together (both on or both off). The 48 and 58 allow selective use of implements (front only, rear only, both, or neither). Twin stick PTOs are rare and cost accordingly.

THE DRIVE SHAFTS AND U-JOINTS: the jeep drive shafts are all 7/8″ diameter steel bar stock with machined in keyway slots. Woodruff keys index the u-joints to the slots in the shafts. The shaft lengths vary by application. To circumvent typical obstacles (crossmembers, exhaust, clutch linkage, etc), a common application will have two shafts, three u-joints, and a center support bearing. For example the early CJ uses a 27 3/8″ front shaft and a 22″ rear shaft. The jeep truck, jeep wagon, or jeep sedan delivery uses a 31.5″ long front shaft and a 17.75″ rear.

Three different jeep universal joints are used in each setup. The front u-joint has one 7/8″ opening with a 3/16″ keyway and one 7/8″ opening with a 1/4″ keyway. The center u-joint has one 7/8″ opening with a 1/4″ keyway and one 7/8″ opening with a 1/4″ keyway. The rear u-joint has one 7/8″ opening with a 1/4″ keyway and one 1″ opening with a 1/4″ keyway. Note all shafts use 1/4″ keyways, but the winch uses a 3/16″ keyway and the PTO, which uses the 1/4″ keyway has a larger 1″ output shaft.

Detailing your Jeep

Engine detailing is an expensive process which should usually begin with the rebuilding of almost all of the engine bays components including the engine itself. If you are removing your motor to overhaul and detail it then it’s pretty easy. You can still detail the engine compartment without rebuilding your motor.

We all like a nice clean engine compartment but how do you go about cleaning off the accumulations of years of leaked oil, road tar, sand and mud? A lot of it will actually have to be physically scraped off. No matter what kind of engine degreaser that you use, none of them will eat through a half inch of dirt and oil accumulation around the bottom of the motor. You can jack the car up and put it on stands. Use putty knifes and scrapers with different blade widths. Steel brushes with good stiff bristles also work.

Once you have gotten off the heavy accumulations, you can start to use engine degreasers. Degreasers are available at most automotive suppliers,hardware stores and grocery  stores. To get the best results it is a good idea to follow the instructions as different solutions require different applications to work properly. It is also a good idea to find out about disposal of the dirty water. You don’t want to degrease your motor and find that you now have a toxic waste site in the middle of your lawn which won’t allow grass to grow for years. Some are environmentally friendly, some are not.
If you are not worried about the paint in your engine compartment Easy Off is actually one of the best and cheapest degreasers going, but it will also remove most paints or at least damage them so take that into consideration if you opt for using it. Paint damage may also result from the use of some other industrial grade degreasers.

Use common sense when you are applying water to the engine and compartment. The local car wash is one of the best bets. You should rinse your motor with hot water and then either as much pressure as you can get from the garden hose or ideally a small pressure washer, but you must make sure not to force water into the engine through its carburetor or any of the vents or breathers. A rag thrown over the top of the carb won’t do it. Use duct tape and plastic to seal up your carb, oil dip stick tube and whatever vents and breathers that you have. Later, when you are cleaning by hand you can remove valve covers, caps, wires, vacuum hoses, etc.

Use a good high temp engine paint. Naturally by taping, masking and holding a small cardboard strip you can put the paint from the can nearly anywhere you want.

I just finished detailing a 1981 CJ8 and it took me over a week.

2012 RAYSJEEPS annual Chili & Gumbo cookoff

RAYSJEEPS is planning our annual chili and gumbo cookoff. Coming soon in the spring of 2012. First and Second place trophies. And, for Showmanship, the winning team gets ???  Teams can use any combination of meat and beans. IE beef, pork, chicken, wild game, quail, duck, possum, kidney, pinto, chilli, black, blackeyed, canneillini, garbanzo, etc

Updated parts list #2

Select the parts including description, part number and cost for each. Then copy all of the information pertaining to that part into an Email (in the Contacts page). We will get back to you within 2 days.

7437 $30.00 Front bumper OEM – U-channel type
7438 $40.00 Bumperettes rear OEM – black
7820 $60.00 CJ carpet sets, various configurations, red and gray
8002 $600.00 CJ5 hardtop new hatch struts
8003 $40.00 Car ramps poly 6k lb rating
8005 $125.00 CJ YJ leather steering wheel, excellent condition, each (Maroon, Tan, Spice)
8006 $30.00 Horn button matching CJ YJ leather steering wheel, excellent condition, each (Maroon, Tan, Spice)
8025 $350.00 Jeep high back seats new black, adjustable back settings
8027 $15.00 Seat bracket OEM driver’s, does not tilt
8028 $40.00 Seat bracket OEM passenger’s, tilts forward (2 each) – price is for each
8029 $40.00 Locking glove box with bracket, no key
8032 $30.00 CJ door hinges – one door set
8033 $30.00 CJ windshield hinges – one set
8002 $750.00 CJ hardtop – has rare Levi roof liner excellent shape
8041T $125.00 Windows for half doors, pair – tan, fits CJ7/CJ8/YJ 1981 – 1995 (square edges)
8041W $125.00 Windows for half doors, pair – white, fits CJ7/CJ8/YJ 1981 – 1995 (square edges)
8042B $125.00 Windows for half doors, pair – black, fits CJ7/CJ8/YJ 1981 – 1995 (square edges)
8043B $125.00 Windows for half doors, pair – black, fits CJ7/CJ8/YJ 1981 – 1995 (round edges)
8044B $500.00 Half hard doors, pair – black, fits CJ7/CJ8/YJ 1981 – 1995
8044W $500.00 Half hard doors, pair – white, fits CJ7/CJ8/YJ 1981 – 1995
8045B $75.00 Mirrors for half hard doors, pair – black, fits CJ7/CJ8/YJ 1981 – 1995
8048 $125.00 Half soft doors, pair – black, fits CJ7/CJ8/YJ 1981 – 1995 (2 sets)
8050 $100.00 CJ7/CJ8 tailgate in reasonably good condition, drilled for snaps, needs gasket
8052 $75.00 CJ back tailgate brackets – one set
8055 $250.00 CJ swing out spare tire carrier, complete with all brackets
8070G $50.00 CJ dash, gray, has cracks
8076 $20.00 Windshield wiper tank OEM
8087 $50.00 CJ Front winch mounting brackets OEM

Updated parts list #1

1741 $40.00 CJ brake & clutch pedal assembly with switch
1750 $20.00 Cooling fan / clutch (2 each) – price is for each
1755 $15.00 CJ starter, alternator – price is for each
1760 $50.00 Drive shaft from CJ7, various transmission configurations, one was recently rebuilt – price is for each
1766 $30.00 CJ front rotors, excellent shape. Only need rust film removed (btwn .001 – .003) – price is for each
1795 $200.00 CJ air conditioning evaporator unit – inside, under dash unit only & Condenser ( no compressor)
1796 $125.00 CJ air conditioning bracket assembly
2010 $30.00 Aluminum spacer plate for bell housing (2 each) – price is for each
3001 $20.00 CJ brake & clutch rubber pedal pads – new set
3002 $10.00 CJ brake & clutch rubber pedal pads – used set
3004 $25.00 CJ hood spring latches new complete set
3005 $15.00 CJ hood spring latches used
3006 $25.00 CJ hood hinges – set new black
3007 $25.00 CJ hood hinges – set used chrome
3008 $30.00 Speedometer/fuel gage/oil pressure cluster
3009 $40.00 CJ horn – new OEM black
3010 $35.00 CJ dash light set – new 6 pieces
3011 $25.00 CJ inside door pulls – used set
3012 $12.00 CJ glove box button – no key type
3013 $15.00 CJ glove box button – lock assembly without key
3014 $40.00 CJ Bushing kit – new one inch
3015 $20.00 CJ door pads – used set
3016 $20.00 CJ hood light – OEM rare
3017 $12.00 Plastic loom clamps
3018 $20.00 CJ Tailgate latch,spring, bolt – one only
3019 $15.00 CJ rubber hood bumpers that attach to radiator frame – OM rare used
3020 $20.00 CJ heater switch – new with knob
3021 $15.00 BWD Automotive R3107 Starter Relay
3022 $50.00 CJ YJ yoke Splicer 2519 – new
3023 $12.00 CJ YJ inside door restraining straps, 6 inches long set
3024 $10.00 Personalized document holder for your glove compartment
3025 $40.00 CJ ignition control module – Duralast F102
3026 $12.00 Clip on mirror for the sunvisor
3027 $15.00 Footman loop sets
3028 $30.00 CJ soft door latches, brackets, bolts
3029 $10.00 Spare tire cover camo
3030 $40.00 Spare tire cover – rare OEM with Jeep emblem black

3031 $20.00 Shock sets – several configurations used
3032 $10.00 CJ frame and body brackets – several configurations used
3033 $15.00 CJ tow hooks
3035 $35.00 CJ YJ roll bar pads
3036 $20.00 YJ wrangler spare tire bracket
3037 $15.00 CJ grill support rods
3038 $30.00 CJ YJ driver side slider bracket

Chucks Tuning Service

Look at Chucks Tuning Service for super tuning your muscle car

Go to :

http://www.facebook.com/chuckstuning

Quail in Plum Sauce

This recipt calls for 10 quail
Saute quail just like chicken to get outside slightly brown
Add 6 prunes and blend on high
Depit a can of plums
Blend plums into a sauce
Add salt, pepper and Tonys to taste
Transfer to a oven tested serving dish
Garnish with canned artichoke hearts

Cook in oven at 350 deg for 20-30 minutes

Quail Almandine

This receipe is for three people.
6 Quail split down back, 1/4 cup flour, Salt and pepper,
4 tbsp. butter, 1/2 cup red table wine, 1 tbsp. sugar
1/2 cup blanched, sliced almonds

Dust birds in flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Melt butter and and saute birds until nicely browned. Add wine and sugar. Cover and continue cooking slowly for 15-20 minutes, 250 degrees. Add almonds and cook for 5-10 minutes longer or until birds are fork tender.

Quail with Sweet and Sour Sauce

Saute quail as you would chicken in butter, salt, pepper and garlic powder

Sweet and sour sauce
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup white vinegar
2 tbsp. cornstarch
2 tbsp. honey mustard
1 tsp. Garlic powder
2 tbsp. catsup

Combine all ingredient making sure the cornstarch is thoroughly dissolved. Cook over low heat (250 deg)till sugar et al is disolved and thickened.

Willis R&R by the Army

View this video of the Army taking apart and putting back together a Willis in 6 minutes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=lgwF8mdQwlw&feature=player_embedded

Chuck’s Tuning Service

Chuck’s Tuning Service (Houston, TX)  832-202-4115

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8h11VjUgIzQ

www.facebook.com/chuckstuning

Quail Casserole

This recipe calls for 8-12 quail:
Salt, pepper, (or Tonys), flour, 1/2 tsp thyme, 1/2 tsp sage,
1/3 cup olive oil or butter, 1/2 lb. fresh mushrooms or 4-oz. can sliced mushrooms,
parsley flakes or fresh chopped parsley, 2 cups dry sherry

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Split birds down back. Add salt and pepper (or Tonys) to the flour and dust birds lightly. Melt butter in skillet and place birds skin-side down. Saute until browned on both sides. Remove birds from skillet and place in a casserole dish with lid. Add mushrooms seasonings and parsley and pour enough sherry into casserole to half cover the birds. Cover casserole and heat in oven for 1 hour. Spoon the clear sherry gravy over the birds before serving. Serves 4 – 6 people.

Roasted quail with jalapeno cheese and bacon wrap

This recipe is for four Quail -

Ingredients:
salt & pepper (or Tonys), Olive Oil, ½ cup Japapeno Cheese, 4 strips Bacon

Preparation Instructions
Season birds with salt and pepper (or Tonys). Drizzle with olive oil. Let the birds marinate in the refrigerater for at least an hour to twenty four hours.

Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Cut a slit in each breast of the quail, fill the resulting pocket with the jalapeno cheese. Wrap each breast in bacon. Tie the legs of each bird together with kitchen twine.

Roast for 15 minutes, or until juices run clear.

We serve the quail with your favorite veggys (mashed potatoes, asparagus, broccili, etc) – the perfect dinner.

Sidewinder Bronco Peak Jeep Trail

Check out this video “One of the Best”

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGmyyBhptZI&feature=related

Welding on your Jeep

One of the most useful skills that a jeep owner can have is the knowledge and ability to weld. It seems like the older the jeep tends to break more often. Knowing how to fix stress cracks, reinforce weak joints by welding on steel support plates, or cutting and shaping parts and adapters out of raw steel plating is an asset that is worth its weight in gold.

There are two types of welding that we will talk about, arc welding and oxy-acetylene. The latter will also include some pertinent information on cutting torches and fabrication of parts and tools.

But we will first cover some basics dealing with arc welding. It is a positively charged electrode and a negatively charged steel plate commonly called a ground complete a circuit at the end of a welding rod. When the rod is held a given distance from the item to be welded, the current jumps the gap creating an enormous amount of heat. The heat melts the rod end and a puddle of liquid metal will result which can be controlled to make a weld.

There are many types of arc welding. A few are carbon-arc, metal-electrode, gas metal-arc, atomic-hydrogen, MIG, TIG, and many others. For our purposes we will focus on two basic types of arc welding; AC and DC. It is difficult to explain the difference in simple, down to earth terms so let’s just settle for some of the main differences and advantages of each.

AC (alternating current) is probably the most common and most economical of welders. The distinct advantage that AC arc welding has is that there is virtually no magnetic blow, which causes excessive splatter and uncontrollable arcs. The basic features are a good forceful arc, an easy arc to maintain once it is begun. It is great for heavy steel plating because of deep penetration. The negative factors are that the initial arc can be difficult to start and that burn- throughs on thinner plates of metal can be a frustrating problem. All in all though, a simple AC welder is a good all around tool for general repairs.

DC, or direct current, provides for a more variety in welding. Direct current, by nature, can be manipulated in ways completely different than the alternating cycles of AC. One example of this is that by changing the polarity of current flow different welding characteristics can be realized. Straight polarity, when the current flows from the rod to the base metal, provides a fairly standard arc for a variety of metals. Reversed polarity, when the current flows from the base metal to the rod, provides for 2/3 of the total heat to be centralized in the welding rod tip. This superheats the electrode metal and shielding gas from the flux causing the molten metal to travel at a high velocity resulting in very deep penetration to the base metal. These variations in the types of DC units can accommodate welding on thick or thin metals. This can give quite a bit of flexibility when trying to avoid burn-throughs with thinner base metals or working on deeper weld penetration on thicker plates.

There are many articles on the different types of welding rods/electrodes and their welding characteristics that you can fine on the internet.

As with any trade there are certain hazards which must be addressed when arc welding.

• Avoiding radiation from the arc, ultraviolet and infrared rays
• Flying sparks, globules of molten metal
• Electrical shock
• Fumes
• Burns

Protective clothing and specialized eye protection must be used in order to reduce these risks. An arc-welding helmet with protective lens reduces the amount of harmful eye radiation and protects the head from splatter and heat. The hair, hands, arms and other skin surfaces must be covered, preferably with heavy leather to shield out other harmful radiation produced by the intense arc. Don’t wear regular coverings like heavy cotton or wool as arc welding is accompanied by flying sparks and molten metal pieces that will ignite such clothing. Also avoid pants with cuffs, tennis shoes, thin gloves, and shoes with thin soles.

Avoid electrical shock by working on a dry floor with thick rubber shoes and by wearing dry leather welding gloves. Also make sure to use insulated electrode holders and have the equipment properly grounded. Keep the area properly ventilated to avoid inhaling the burnt fumes. The fumes generated in the welding process may contain highly toxic metal oxides. Keep in mind that you are welding with molten metal. The arc is hot, the metal is hot, and everything in contact with the metal is hot. Watch for falling metal globules; they burn quickly through tennis shoes and unprotected pants. When done welding use tongs to pick up the metal; it does not cool quickly and even when quenched in water beware of the superheated steam it produces when dipped and the heat it retains when removed.

Above all be aware of others around you. When an arc is struck to start welding the sudden flash can cause severe eye damage to onlookers.

More on oxy-acetylene welding in a later revision.